From Cadiz to Arcos De La Frontera

Leaving Cadiz almost felt like a bad idea, but La Frontera was anything but a disappointment. A slow pedal along the distinct trail of gravelly sand with an unending strip of beach to one side, and the trappings of the industrial world interacting with a very distinct nature reserve. A few days into this cycling and confidence gets a little higher. I don't encourage this too much because while you'll have a grasp of a bicycle and trust in your own abilities that you haven't had before, over-confidence is very often a pre-cursor to some show stopping stupid behavior.  Not to miss any opportunity for making a mistake, as I leave Cadiz I'm involved in the one of the calmest most slow motion cycling accidents ever to take place. An elderly lady is on the footpath approaching as I inch along the promenade. She is veering ever closer to my path, and although I'm almost not even moving, the only way I can completely remove all possibility of a collision is to move towards a palm tree and lean on it to stop. This is when I learn that palm trees have a rough, abrasive bark well capable of stripping a layer of skin off a person even at a very low speed. My shoulder is most obviously a mess at this point but I decide that looking at what won between the cycling jersey, skin and tree bark can wait a few hours till I've topped up on Tortilla have gotten a certain amount of distance done.

It bears repeating again and again, while I'd recommend cycling in Andalusia to anyone who thinks cycling is a good idea, Its never so easy to recommend Ireland with the inherent increased danger that comes with the lack of infrastructure. I'm a few days into this trip at this point and almost taking for granted both the consideration of Spanish drivers and the infrastructure that is provided.

Soon I'm back in almost wilderness with just the sound of grass in the wind for company. The historical military significance of La Frontera has left more than Pueblos Blanco's in the region.

I stumble across a facility where very specific breeds of horse are maintained by the Spanish military as a cultural echo of the past. I don't try to get close and just am happy to sit by road and observe them for a few minutes. The stinging in my shoulder has receded enough to enjoy what the moment is at this point. 

The road to Arcos De La Frontera takes me across more grassy plains until, a little abruptly I'm climbing steeply to the guest house I've booked. After Cadiz I'm booking no more than a day or two in advance from here onward its just a matter of picking a village I can reach in a day that has some form of accommodation free. This brought me to a range of Hotels, Hostels, Guest Houses and shares along the way. In Arcos I'm greeted by a lady who's son or nephew is drafted in to give me access to a lock up for my bike. A few minutes wound licking and contacting everyone I know with some level of Spanish about the names for bandages, pain killers and so on and I'm ready to explore Arcos De La Frontera. Arcos - Meaning the Apex of the Frontier perched like many Andalusian towns on a the peak of a hill with a steep face on one side. From here the cars below aren't really audible. The old streets are a wonderful maze and they suck me in for an hour until i find somewhere to eat, outside, in the stereotypical local style outdoors along the street in view of the rest of the town. There's a great sense of community in the atmosphere, people are gracious, friendly and relaxed. The ancient structures here put life, its brevity and its enjoyment in sharp dusky focus. Another beer for the road to watch these people enjoy it. 

While the evening in Arcos is a little mythical to me, I'm worn a bit thin after nursing a shoulder injury for a day and am happy for an early night. Arcos reveals it's grandeur much better in the daylight, I become acquainted with the dog in Hotel Malaga. While the distances over the next few days will reduce the climbing is going to increase. The morning after I struggle as always to find breakfast and leave arcos thinking whatever else happens in the trip, its been more than satisfying already.

Next: Arcos De La Frontera to Olvera Part 1.