Arcos de la frontera to Olvera Part 2 - Via Verde de La Sierra

Around 100 years ago a rail line was planned north of the Andalusian mountains linking Olvera, Arcos De La Frontera and eventually Jerez, all places I'd passed through. Political and financial changes in Spain and Europe at large over an eventful following half century meant that while significant developments were carried out, the money, and moreover the need for a the rail line declined and by the sixties it was officially abandoned, leaving a string of tunnels and viaducts stretching from Puerto Serrano to Olvera which has been redeveloped as a greenway for cyclists and walkers. No regular trains ever ran here, adding to novelty of the place. The ground is a loose small spiky gravel and would certainly make mince of a road bike, but for anything more robust its an amazing and recommendable spin of around 36km. Its well documented on viaverdes.com for those who are interested in trying it or any other Spanish greenway.

It begins, or more accurately ends at this little bridge where there are some facilities - word of warning, when those facilities close, they really close.

From here it tracks into a tightly wound system of hills which follow lazy little rivers through an uninhabited territory. Tunnels frequently cutting through the hills which had been expecting little steam trains have families and mountain bike groups speckled along the way. It doesn't turn out to be  overly crowded and often I have it to myself.

The wildlife is slowly changing and a these large birds start appearing.  While it is relatively flat and easy enough going, theres really no point in rushing as theres something nice to look at round every corner.

I start getting a little wary at the length of the shadows, the sun sets a lot faster here than it does in Ireland, the rivers have snaked away and I'm into steeper and steeper rocks. I get a little wary of being out on some abandoned rail line in the dark and do a few rough guesses at how far i've come and how far I am from Olvera. Maybe an hour? I mentally commit to doing the latter part of the trip at speed and check on the water rations for the last push. I sharp steep outcrop of rock emerges on the horizon and as it grows closer and the vultures start to increase in numbers.

Its pronounced peak, sheer drops and ragged barren sides create a climate all of their own, buzzards are specks on its horizon and in the ravine below, an ecosystem unlike any other part of Spain I'd experienced. I stop, forget the setting sun, and listen...



You can pick up any number of injuries aches and pains, any anxieties about getting to the next town, but the few moments you find yourself completely absorbed in the wilderness and overwhelmed by what it is push all that aside.
The sun doesn't really share my enthusiasm for breaking the schedule to appreciate a moment, and I push on eventually in almost darkness till what I hope is Olvera, at this point I'm tired. The Sierra Greenway is actually meant to be cycled from Olvera, not to it, so for the last 20km I've been sprinting up a gentle hill, only to find out that Olvera is essentially a cliff face pretending to be a town.

I limp to the hotel after what is now about 80km and am greeted by the friendliest bar lady I could have asked for at Hotel Meson Fuente Del Pino. My bike is locked up safely and they accommodate me with food much later than they needed to. I sit at the bar, and with the maps they handed out carve out my route so far with a blue pen. Feeling pretty high up on Maslow's hierarchy of needs, I sleep, rest and set out the next morning to see Olvera in daylight.

Olvera does not disappoint. A tower perching like an oversized owl on a rock overlooking a well established community makes for some spectacular morning views. 

Olvera is a small town yet in my mind, after approaching from greenway became a very grand place. You can read all the details about the greenway here 

Next: Olvera to Algodonales